Thank you, thank you for this amazing site - an absolute wonder of information pertaining to all things Guerlain. I have been slowly building a collection of Guerlain perfumes and bottles, and have just acquired an empty Shalimar Baccarat bottle with the logo etc acid etched on the base. It also has the number 92 on it which I understand indicates how old it is. However, I have been unable to find this information - the only site I discovered did not have this particular number in the list. Have you any suggestions? Sally
Dear Sally, Thank you so much for your praise and interest, I deeply appreciate it! Congratulations on your Shalimar Baccarat bottle find - it sounds like you've got hold of one of the old and rare US export bottles which for a short period were labelled with the stock number, "No.90", "No.91" and "No.92". You can read more about it here: http://monsieurguerlain2.blogspot.dk/2008/06/shalimar.html
Ooops - sorry Msr G - my mistake in not explaining myself very well. The #92 on my Shalimar bottle isn't on the label but it's etched on the bottom of the bottle next to the Baccarat mark. How long have you been collecting? Your collection is positively "drool worthy" :-) Do you get your items directly from Guerlain or various sources? Regards, Sally
Dear Sally, Oh, the etched number on Baccarat bottles is just to match the stopper and bottle. Each stopper is ground precisely to fit the bottle neck, so any stopper only fits one single bottle. The numbering ensures there's no confusion during production. You should be able to find the same number on the stopper. It has nothing to do with age. I'm glad you like my collection! I've sourced it from various places, since vintage is my main interest.
Hello, I love Guerlain fragrances since a couple of years. I really adore Chamade and L´Heure Bleue, which are my favorite fragrances in general. Now I just decided to get a bottle of Nahema and Jardins de Bagatelle, because I think, I am "grown" into those fragrances. What do you think about their current formulations? Could you please give me an Advice, if I should get them in edt oder the edp. version? As a fragrance-lover I really enjoy your site, thank you & and best wishes from Vienna Kangourette
Dear Kangourette, Sorry for my late response to you. It's wonderful to know that you appreciate my Guerlain site! I haven't smelled the very latest versions of Nahéma and Jardins de Bagatelle, but I remember the more recent ones to be really good - somehow "cleaner" and less musky, but none the worse for it. I would choose EdP for both, they have more depth and roundness, I think. Good luck!
Would you please advise me of any of the Guerlain fragrances that you would absolutely purchase as an extrait de parfum rather than as an eau de parfum (or eau de toilette in the case of Vol de Nuit) because the extrait version is so much better than the eau de parfum version? Thank you for your advice, and for the pleasure that your website brings!
Dear Anonymous, I'm glad my site brings you pleasure :-) Actually, I think that the only current Guerlain where the extrait is mandatory is Vol de Nuit - the EdT is too fleeting. For the rest, I think the EdP is fine. Before, also Chant d'Arômes and Après l'Ondée were to be recommended as extrait.
I would like to purchase EDP of L'Heure Bleue, but in a blog interview (after Perfumes:The Guide was published) Tania Sanchez claimed that the fragrance has been "destroyed" and no longer warrants a coveted "five star" rating. What is your opinion on the IFRA reformulation in EDP concentration? Thank you for your advice.
Dear Anonymous, I've also read Sanchez' observations on the reformulation of L'Heure Bleue, however I haven't smelled the newest batch. I think the latest I smelled was 2009, and although it wasn't as soft as earlier versions, I found it beautiful. Generally, L'Heure Bleue EdP is harder on the clove than the Parfum.
Dear Mr. Guerlain I've really enjoyed reading your blog and have some questions; firstly I have a bottle of Parure in the "sucrier" bottle stating demonstration bottle but without the gold casing; do you know what years these were used? Secondly, i picked up a small bottle in the leather travel case without a label but WITH contents! Is there anyway of finding out which Guerlain it is? I'm MNQ on parfumo and have pictures in my album if you could possibly help? Excellent blog - keep up the good work! Kind regards and thanks MNQ
Dear MNQ, I'm really thrilled you like my Guerlain blog! (1) I'm not sure precisely when the 200 ml sucrier refills were introduced, but they were certainly made during the 80s and 90s. (2) I don't know of any other way to determine an unnamed scent other than by smelling! :-) Do you have a link to your photo album?
Dear A., It's lovely to know you appreciate the content on my site! And congratulations on your Jicky Parfum. Prior to 2000, Guerlain's codes weren't decipherable unless you had access to their database. After 2000, the codes were changed so they now begin with a number that indicates the year of production. I have seen some online batch code databases, but I don't think they're precise at all. Looking at your code, you can be sure it was pre-2000, and I'd say somewhere in the 1990s from my experience.
Have you ever come across a black and white zig-zag Guerlain Shalimar box without volume indication? Is this the "real" thing? http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=shalimar+extrait&_sacat=0&_from=R40
Hello, Thank you for providing this great site on Guerlain. It's beautiful to see the dedication and passion you have. I have enjoyed the vast amount of information and great presentation. THANK YOU!
Dear Anonymous, I deeply cherish your appreciation and enjoyment of my Guerlain fan site. It's very comforting to know that you found it useful and entertaining!
Greetings from Australia! I have recently acquired a 2004 bottle of Mitsouko EDP. Is this the pre-reformulated version? Thank you, we are lucky to have your expertise!
Dear Anonymous, I'm glad my site can be of use. The case of reformulations is very complex, since the formula of Mitsouko (and other scents) has changed gradually from the late 1990s until today, so it's difficult to speak about pre- and post-reformulated editions. Listing allergens on the box didn't become obligatory until the mid-2010s, so we have no clue about for instance the oakmoss status until then, apart from our nose trying to smell it. In my book however I'd consider 2004 a fairly untouched vintage of Mitsouko. Some people even prefer this vintage over earlier ones due to a certain crispness.
Good evening! Thank you for a wonderful site and what an amazing collecion! I would like to purchase Shalimar, Jicky and Mitsouko. Would you please advise me wich version should I buy? EDT, EDP or as an extrait de parfum? Thank you, Nataly(UK)
Dear Nataly, Thank you for your appreciation of my site! The Parfum/extrait is always the perfumer's ideal version of a fragrance, and if you want an intimate scent that lasts all day, this is the best choice. If you want a more diffusive trail, EdP is a good choice. The EdT is for a lighter impression.
A Paris-based Guerlain representative on a U.S. "trunk show" tried to sell me on L'Heure Bleue extrait (2012 version). Having read your account of the most recent IFRA-mandated reformulation, I told her I wanted something else. Do you know whether the recent changes to L'Heure Bleue fell equally hard on the extrait, so that it too is significantly damaged? Thank you for your advice.
Dear Anonymous, I'm not sure I'd call L'Heure Bleue 'damaged', however all versions are to my nose far less rich and complex nowadays. Some people find new L'Heure Bleue completely satisfying, but compared to when it had animal musks, lots of orris and the most mellow orange blossom, I feel I miss something.
I must to write something..First thanks on this blog..it is wonderful..I love designer perfumes but GUERLAIN house is No.1 if you ask me.I am big fan of Guerlain perfumes and i am very sory beacuze Guerlain house is sold to LMVH...I will nevr forget one sentence: Always women and always been a inspiration...Jean-Paul Guerlain.. Regards from Serbia. Djuradj.
Was Shalimar extrait ever sold in a 45ml bottle size? I cannot find any reference to it anywhere and am wondering if the bottle might be a factice. It is thevintage fan shaped bottle with the blue stopper. The label just says "Shalimar". Thanks for your input!
Hi, there is no marking on the bottle and no box. It sounds as though the seller decanted and measured the contents. The bottle is missing a few ml, so if there is 45ml in there, the bottle could probably have held a little bit more. It is very puzzling. Might there have been a 48ml or a 50ml bottle? It's definitely not big enough for 60ml.
A myriad of moulds have existed for the Shalimar bottle, and not all are mentioned by volume in the bottle book, so there might well have been a 50 ml version at some point in history.
I wonder whether the Mon Precieux Nectar in "Parfum" is the same as "extrait" concentration? I am confused what I would be buying, and is it worth the price? Also, what is your opinion of this fragrance--is it wearable for an everyday scent?
Dear Anonymous, Parfum is the same as Extrait. Guerlain decided to launch the Parisienne edition of Mon Précieux Nectar as the original Parfum although this line normally goes as EdP, because the fragrance works best this way. It's a very competitive price for a Parfum. I'm not sure I'd call it an everyday scent - it's quite rich.
Hi Nicky, I might do that at one point! My reviews aren't really comprehensive since I mainly write about personal favourites, but I guess my site could need a broader perspective. Thanks for the suggestion!
What is your opinion of Insolence extrait? Is it more similar to the eau de toilette or to the eau de parfum? If I adore the eau de parfum, does the extrait amplify its beauty? Thank you for your advice.
Dear Barry, I immensely value your appreciation of my Guerlain site. It's very reassuring that it's useful and entertaining to some people! Thanks for your kind message.
Dear Anonymous, I honestly haven't tried Insolence Parfum myself, but the later EdP was an entirely different composition, so I doubt you can compare the two.
Hi. I just bought a Vol de Nuit 50ml EdT Tester on ebay, it's not the cuboid bottle we can see in store now. Is this one before the reformulation which took oakmoss and animalic notes out?
Dear Andrew, You have to look at the batch code at the bottom. If it starts with a number, and not a letter, it's probably the new reformulation. We don't know when banned materials were taken out though - we have to smell it. Anyway, the EdT was never as animalic as the Parfum.
If you were to choose two of Guerlain's extraits as representing the best of the house, after IFRA's recent mandated reformulations, which two would they be?
Thank you for your gorgeous site and Facebook page!
Dear Anonymous, I'm glad you enjoy my Guerlain sites! If I were forced to choose only two of the current extraits, I think I'd end up with Shalimar and L'Heure Bleue, and after that, Mitsouko and Nahéma.
I am hoping you can advise me on at what year the Guerlain boxes changed from the shiny gold color, I know that it was around in the 80's but not when it changed??? I have the chance to buy a sealed bottle of LHB in this golden box, it is a lil more expensive than the current bottle but would it be worth it??
Dear Ann, The Parure cannister came in 1975, but I don't have information about when it was taken out of production. A guess would be in 1982 when all cannisters were replaced by the standard gold-toned metal canister with a basket weave pattern.
Good morning, Monsieur! I bought Chamade EDT 30ML in Flacon Louis XVI and zebra box N569. I know that it was limited edition. Do you know when it was produced? Best regards, Nataliya
This is a note to tell you how much I enjoy your site. thank you for your hard work. Your passion and appreciation for the House Of Guerlain shines through.
I was given a bottle of Mitsuko, with the serial number SE01. I think this means it was produced in 2002. It was a never used demonstration bottle, and on the back it says Chypre Spicy /Dominant notes/Peach, spices, oakmoss. How fum is that-to see the words oakmoss used in a good way, to define a fragrance?! Have a good night, Carole
Dear Carole, I'm very grateful about your appreciation of my Guerlain site. It's wonderful to know it's useful and entertaining! About the Mitsouko batch code - maybe it says 5 and not S? These codes always begin with a number. 5E01 means May 2005.
I have my glasses now-it says 2E01:) Sorry! So I guess it could be 2002, or perhaps 2012. I really really like it-I feel like I finally understand, or at least have a glimmer of an understanding, of what the mystique of Mitsouko is about.
Also included is a bottle of , I think 1997 Chamade (serial VT 1WG). It's exactly what I remember Chamade to be! When I first wore it, it was so powdery. I accidentally applied too much, on the back of my knees, at Christmas time. I was so mad at myself but had no time to shower again before work. I still remember the compliments it ellicted, and how it changed over the day. It's a very special memory for me. I kept buying Chamade, over the years, and loved it, but somehow this particular bottle smells exactly as my memory of Chamade does. Sincerely, Carole
Good day.First of all i want to tell you that i love your blog.I want to ask you if the civet note in Mouchoir de Monsiuer,current formulation, is organic or synthetic? because i love this perfume but i don t want animals to suffer.Thank you
Dear Anonymous, I'm very happy that you like my site! To my knowledge, Guerlain doesn't use natural animal materials any longer, precisely to avoid the suffering of animals.
Hi Monsieur guerlian, I'm so glad to find your site. I have been google search all day and try to find the batch code '2Q02' meaning. It is stamped on my Guerlian facial mask. I would appreciate if you can help me. Thank you so much
Just spotted a fake Mitsouko: http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/173927600
I've had another ponderings for a while: There are quite a few umbrella bottles and "bud" cap bottles with a sticker on the bottom of the box or bottle (one finds many of them in Japanese auction sites) saying "Ce produit ne peut etre vendu que par les depositaires agrees par la societe GUERLAIN conformement a ses conditions generales de ventes." (accents omitted due to german keyboard) under which is the Lot No. in green-ink stamped. They don't look counterfeit at all, and smell very good. Does it just mean the products intended to be sold out of Guerlain boutiques (such as duty-free shops), or are they indeed a counterfeit?
I imagine that many such vintage Mitsouko bottles which end up in the Japanese auction sites were typical souvenirs from a holiday in Europe (because of its Japanese name, it must have been a popular souvenir gift) in the early 80's. Only that it smells much too strong for most Japanese would like, hence many ended up somewhere in the drawer, often only once opened, like my mother's.
Dear auldmisserard, Thanks for that link! That's very surprising to me, I never saw it before - it all looks correct except for the name, does it say "KUEISHAN"? I wonder. You really never see counterfeited Guerlains. The sentence that you mention were marked on all Guerlain products until some years ago. It stems from the fact that Guerlain didn't reach an agreement with Parisian department stores back in 1842, and therefore Guerlain decided to control itself the sale of its products. All vintage Guerlains, no matter where you find them, bear this stamp.
thank you very much for very precise answer! and thank you for your wonderful work on the website/blog/facebook! Yes, isn't that bizarre "KUEISHAN", I thought so! And the typeface seems different, as well as what's printed on the seal around the neck "MITSOUKO PARIS PERFUME" isn't it usually "MITSOUKO GUERLAIN PARIS"? (I am a novice, perhaps there are generation of such bottles...) But what's the point...? I suspect Japanese tourist bought it in Hong Kong (back then it was very common that tourists who did shopping in places like Hong Kong unknowingly bought counterfeit luxury-brand bags and other goods, which explains why "Kueishan" ended up in Japan in ca. 80's...).
it really may not be your interest, but i did find an amazing thing during the lunch break: yes, it indeed was written KUEISHAN, (see http://www.japanauctioncenter.com/auction/f127769670 ). There seems to be a Vol de Nuit version of the white outer box, saying KUEISHAN NIGHT FLY PERFUME SUPPLIED BY CHARABOT FRANCE, this time very clearly visible!
Dear auldmisserard, Sorry for my late reply, and thanks for your research! It's quite interesting, and the first time I hear about these mysterious Japanese Guerlains! Thank you very much for sharing the information.
Hello, Thank you for putting together this wonderful website! It is such a pleasure to browse and I have learnt so much. I was wondering if you might have any tips for dating old Guerlain bottles? I recently acquired two sealed vintage vol de nuits in the propeller bottle. They are similar, but have some definitely differences in details of the bottles. I would love to figure out approximate dates, both to better appreciate them and to help me decide which to open and use first! Thanks in advance for your help!
Dear Lauren, Sorry for my late reply, and thank you for your appreciative words! Dating old bottles can be quite tricky because the batch codes were different back then. My best recommendation is to try and get the reference book "Guerlain perfume bottles since 1828".
Hi – I am hoping you can help me with information on an old bottle of Jicky that I own. My uncle purchased a bottle of Jicky for my mother while he was in Paris during World War II. He had it shipped to my Mom here in the states. The glass stopper had been sealed with onion skin to prevent leakage. I have inherited the bottle now and I am wondering if there is any chance that the perfume is still good. The bottle has never been opened, but a small amount has evaporated, even with the onion skin intact. I have smelled the fragrance at my local department store, and think it is lovely, but I have my doubts that this bottle has any value anymore. I do not want to open it now after all these years. If the fragrance is no longer there, would the bottle be of any value to a collector. I am not sure what to do with this. I hate to discard it, but I cannot store it forever. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks - Jan
Dear Anonymous, Thank you very much for your email. What a nice thing to inherit! I doubt that the scent is still good after all these years. If you mainly want this bottle for the fragrance, I think it’s better to get a new bottle and then sell the bottle sealed - then it’s of much higher value for a collector.
I love guerlain and more particularly mitsouko (and l'heure bleue and apres l'ondée and jicky ...). Do you know why guerlain does not sell vol de nuit in edp? I can only find it in edt. It is also actually puzzling that it is so hard to find 30 ml edp (apart from mitsouko i prefer 30 ml botles) and to find lait pour le corps. I love your blog.... and the facebook pages. It is so nice to receive news everyday. Have a nice day. Christine from montpellier
Dear Christine, I'm very sorry for this terribly late reply - for some reason your comment had slipped through my notifications. I'm very glad you find my Guerlain sites useful! Vol de Nuit was never released as EdP; I guess it doesn't sell well enough for that. I think that nowadays, the EdP bottles only come as 75 ml.
Hello Monsieur Guerlain! I decided to post here instead of inquiring to you on your FB page( both sites are a pleasure though). I recently intended to purchase a bottle of Nahema extract, yet on a Spirit led choice walked out instead with L'heure Blue ( new formula). I am enamored with her beauty while also knowing I can truly never know her fully, her heart is not there. I would purchase her all over again, even with this knowledge as my heart is hers...do you have any suggestions as to how I might deepen my experience with this beautiful fragrance? I was in hopes of layering her with her top note edt, yet I fear this will further divide us~ perhaps a vintage edp, edc, or even extract as she is? Or in turn I stay in this poetic love, yet distance, to one so beautiful and enjoy my extract for all she has to offer, fleeting as she may be, she is still so lovely~ Thank you for all you do, your wonderful sites and knowledge of the House, coming here is a delight. Willow
Dear Kelly MacNeil, Thank you very much for your kind words. It's good to know you find my sites useful. I find modern L'Heure Bleue to be quite faithful to the vintage, although it lacks the animal musk of course. Often Guerlain recommends using the Parfum for the intimate, long-lasting effect, and then spray the EdT on clothes etc to get diffusion. But if you mainly wear perfume for yourself, then I'd say just stick to the Parfum.
I have a question concerning the discontinuation rumours you mention- how can one obtain confirmation of discontinuations in advance? I assume it's not something Guerlain mention in their regular newsletters. I'm particularly concerned about Vol de Nuit extrait. In addition, do you have any comments about the implications of the latest EU oakmoss impurity regulations on the Guerlain classics?
Thank you for your lovingly written and beautifully illustrated articles- part of the reason for an obsession with all things Guerlain that I can't really afford :-)
Dear CharisT Thank you so much for your kind acknowledgement of my Guerlain articles! It's really good to know they are useful and appreciated. The fact is that the many rumours about discontinuations are often untrue, although some of them prove to be true. You're right that Guerlain for obvious reasons doesn't shout about it, even though it would be nice to know if you are a collector. I sometimes contact Guerlain PR director to ask about these rumours. I'd be very surprised if Guerlain chooses to discontinue Vol de Nuit Parfum, though. As for the oakmoss problem, we were quite relieved to know that Thierry Wasser is constantly working on improving the state of the classics, and that Mitsouko already smells wonderful. The latest Vol de Nuit Parfum is also excellent, in my opinion.
Hi Monsieur Guerlain Thank goodness that you give me an insight into what's going within Guerlain! Unfortunately, living in Australia, as a loyal Guerlain customer, we miss out on a lot! In regards to the new 2014 Limited Edition La Petite Robe Noire - where can I purchase them please? Keep up the great news on Guerlain for our loyal "down under" customers!
Hello Monsieur Guerlain, What can you tell us about L'Instant Extreme pour Homme reformulations and new bottle (packaging). It's obvious that the smell is the same but lacks the longevity. Thank you, Amir
Dear Amir, To my knowledge, there has been no reformulation of LDGPHE - it could be variations in the raw materials or just ageing of older juice? I must admit I haven't smelled any recent batches.
In your news article on the reissuance of Coq D'Or, you mentioned that "Luckily, modern versions of Mitsouko, Vol de Nuit and other Guerlain classics are proof that Wasser wants to go a long way in the lab to try to imitate the effect of a raw material that can no longer be used." I have a 2012 version of Mitsouko extrait, but I am thinking of purchasing L'Heure Bleue in extrait in a few months. Has Mr. Wasser improved LHB extrait (and Mitsouko extrait)from its 2012 incarnation, by trying to reconstruct LHB as it might have been prior to IFRA restrictions?
Dear Anonymous, Thierry Wasser has told us that as of lately, he has been in the process of making improvements on all of the classic Guerlain perfumes, in order to move them still closer to their original spirit. This has been possible thanks to technological advances and has concerned, among other things, bergamot, musk, moss and spicy notes. It would be wrong to say that the classics now smell just like they did prior to the IFRA restrictions, but they to feel closer to the historic versions. Mitsouko was reformulated in 2013, and according to Thierry Wasser the rest followed suit thereafter.
Yes! L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme Extreme - a pathetic reformulation. Tried it today at Sephora's.... Such a bad bad bad joke. What used to be a masterpiece is now a common/ almost good fragrance. Silage and longevity are to laugh about. That fragrance, the REAL L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme Extreme was 24/7 present in my life: on my pillows, on my scarves, in my structure if I might say. And now... it is just a shy shadow of what it used to be... Habit Rouge has the same story. Basically an eau de parfum has more than 8+ hours longevity. Even my Habit Rouge L'eau is more vibrant than this watered down "monster wannabe". So Monsieur Guerlain.... you should be more informed about those reformulations if you name yourself a brand ambassador/ aficionado. I have read the comments above and I have seen that there are others Guerlain users that observed such BIG changes, and you, Mr. tell us that "good longevity and sillage come with age". Really? Do you think that you are the only Guerlain "fan"? I applaud your passion, but don't try to sell cucumbers to the gardeners. It is obvious that you avoid some "in our face changes". Does Mrs Rousseau - the PR Manager from the House behave the same? YES! This is not fair, at least for the customers that PAY good money to get such products. Thank you
Dear Anonymous, Thank you for your feedback about LIDGE - I'm very sorry to hear about any eventual changes. I definitely don't consider myself knowing of everything going on at Guerlain, and I don't regularly check each and every new batch of a perfume. A PR dep is typically very tight about information to the public, but I think that Thierry Wasser has been very open about all the reformulations that have been necessary due to safety restrictions. I mention his comments on Habit Rouge on my website. Regarding LIDGE, it surprises me it should have changed as it shouldn't contain any restricted materials, so I appreciate your heads up. It remains a fact however that freshness and ageing greatly affect the impression of a fragrance.
Dear Monsieur: I just purchased a 2014 version of L'Heure Bleue extrait, and it's somewhat "spicier," nuanced and longer-lasting than the 2012 version I have. The Mitsouko extrait from 2014 is also longer lasting than the 2012 version I own, with a deeper "flavor" to the scent. My dry skin "eats" scent, but these two 2014 versions have much better lasting power on me. Kudos to Thierry Wasser and his reformulation, which I think is the best under the circumstances.
Dear Monsieur: To continue my previous comment, Derby in its 2014 incarnation is much longer lasting on the skin than the most recent prior version from 2012.
Hello Monsieur! Thank you for an incrediable website with great information! I love keeping up with your Facebook and Instagram. I came across a Guerlain item that I hadn't seen before and I was wondering if you could offer up some insight on the product. I am interested in owning it, I just can't find out any information about it anywhere. It is a voyager hand held mirror on Etsy sold as a vintage item.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/201486842/guerlain-meteorites-voyage-mirror-hand?ref=sr_gallery_20&ga_search_query=guerlain&ga_ref=auto1&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery Thanks so much!
Dear Jessica Anne, Thank you very much for your support! An interesting item you've found there. I never saw such a Météorites mirror before, but it makes sense that several different accessories were made in this very popular and elegant design range.
Hello, Do you still have this bottle of Jicky? I just came across this website and your post from Feb 2014. Would you be interested in selling it? My mother adores this fragrance! Thank you
Hi Monsieur Guerlain I have heard from my rep in Australia that Guerlain are deleting all body products for their fragrances! Is this true? Or is it only for Australian customers? Kind regards.
I just wanted to tell you that I am stunned, amazed, blown away, gobsmacked, and just generally in awe of you, your website, Guerlain and the crazy creativity of all three!!! Guerlain is my favorite House, but I really had no idea why until I clicked on "DNA Guerlainade" and read every word. It was as much a feast for the mind as it was visually stunning....and I learned so much! Thank you for your obsession (if you don't mind me calling it that); it seems to exceed even my own...and you have done something with yours! Something magical and inspiring. (I just wear a lot of Mitsouko.) Thank you. You are incredible.
Dear Celeste Church, Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm very happy to know that my work has inspired you, and it's flattering to know that another Guerlain aficionado can be taken away.
I am in the Shalimar zone today, and it is good! I've done the Guerlain overdose thing today, just doused myself good and proper with every kind of Shalimar I have (and that's a lot of Shalimar!). One beautiful blue glass bottle I pulled out is called "beautifying hair gel" and I'm wearing it as a lotion...It's like liquid velvet, truly. And I figured you'd know: do they still make this? Would love to get some more, but can't remember where or when I got it! Your thoughts?
I found the Shalimar Beautifying Hair Gel! Amazon has it for twenty bucks!! Can't get it, though, I'm saving up for Jicky. Want a challenge, and the reviews indicate Jicky is that for lots of people. Can't wait! Is Jicky one you like, or is it a miss for you? I can't decide between the EDT or EDP....afraid the pure parfum is beyond me financially. Hope you're enjoying your summer. If you need a little more heat I'll be happy to send you some from Los Angeles...we have way too much!
Thanks! I will go for the EDP. I have you to thank for so many of my Guerlain purchases (my wallet is NOT happy with you, Monsieur!) But I am happy. Your prose is so vivid and really makes the perfumes irresistible to me. Keep up the good work! :)
109 comments:
Greetings Msr G!
Thank you, thank you for this amazing site - an absolute wonder of information pertaining to all things Guerlain. I have been slowly building a collection of Guerlain perfumes and bottles, and have just acquired an empty Shalimar Baccarat bottle with the logo etc acid etched on the base. It also has the number 92 on it which I understand indicates how old it is. However, I have been unable to find this information - the only site I discovered did not have this particular number in the list. Have you any suggestions? Sally
Dear Sally,
Thank you so much for your praise and interest, I deeply appreciate it! Congratulations on your Shalimar Baccarat bottle find - it sounds like you've got hold of one of the old and rare US export bottles which for a short period were labelled with the stock number, "No.90", "No.91" and "No.92". You can read more about it here: http://monsieurguerlain2.blogspot.dk/2008/06/shalimar.html
Ooops - sorry Msr G - my mistake in not explaining myself very well. The #92 on my Shalimar bottle isn't on the label but it's etched on the bottom of the bottle next to the Baccarat mark.
How long have you been collecting? Your collection is positively "drool worthy" :-) Do you get your items directly from Guerlain or various sources?
Regards, Sally
Dear Sally,
Oh, the etched number on Baccarat bottles is just to match the stopper and bottle. Each stopper is ground precisely to fit the bottle neck, so any stopper only fits one single bottle. The numbering ensures there's no confusion during production. You should be able to find the same number on the stopper. It has nothing to do with age. I'm glad you like my collection! I've sourced it from various places, since vintage is my main interest.
Hello, I love Guerlain fragrances since a couple of years. I really adore Chamade and L´Heure Bleue, which are my favorite fragrances in general. Now I just decided to get a bottle of Nahema and Jardins de Bagatelle, because I think, I am "grown" into those fragrances. What do you think about their current formulations? Could you please give me an Advice, if I should get them in edt oder the edp. version?
As a fragrance-lover I really enjoy your site, thank you & and best wishes from Vienna
Kangourette
Dear Kangourette,
Sorry for my late response to you. It's wonderful to know that you appreciate my Guerlain site! I haven't smelled the very latest versions of Nahéma and Jardins de Bagatelle, but I remember the more recent ones to be really good - somehow "cleaner" and less musky, but none the worse for it. I would choose EdP for both, they have more depth and roundness, I think. Good luck!
Mon cher monsieur:
Would you please advise me of any of the Guerlain fragrances that you would absolutely purchase as an extrait de parfum rather than as an eau de parfum (or eau de toilette in the case of Vol de Nuit) because the extrait version is so much better than the eau de parfum version? Thank you for your advice, and for the pleasure that your website brings!
Dear Anonymous,
I'm glad my site brings you pleasure :-) Actually, I think that the only current Guerlain where the extrait is mandatory is Vol de Nuit - the EdT is too fleeting. For the rest, I think the EdP is fine. Before, also Chant d'Arômes and Après l'Ondée were to be recommended as extrait.
Dear Mr. Guerlain:
I would like to purchase EDP of L'Heure Bleue, but in a blog interview (after Perfumes:The Guide was published) Tania Sanchez claimed that the fragrance has been "destroyed" and no longer warrants a coveted "five star" rating. What is your opinion on the IFRA reformulation in EDP concentration? Thank you for your advice.
Dear Anonymous,
I've also read Sanchez' observations on the reformulation of L'Heure Bleue, however I haven't smelled the newest batch. I think the latest I smelled was 2009, and although it wasn't as soft as earlier versions, I found it beautiful. Generally, L'Heure Bleue EdP is harder on the clove than the Parfum.
Dear Mr. Guerlain
I've really enjoyed reading your blog and have some questions; firstly I have a bottle of Parure in the "sucrier" bottle stating demonstration bottle but without the gold casing; do you know what years these were used?
Secondly, i picked up a small bottle in the leather travel case without a label but WITH contents! Is there anyway of finding out which Guerlain it is? I'm MNQ on parfumo and have pictures in my album if you could possibly help?
Excellent blog - keep up the good work!
Kind regards and thanks
MNQ
Dear MNQ,
I'm really thrilled you like my Guerlain blog! (1) I'm not sure precisely when the 200 ml sucrier refills were introduced, but they were certainly made during the 80s and 90s. (2) I don't know of any other way to determine an unnamed scent other than by smelling! :-) Do you have a link to your photo album?
Hello,
I have a Jicky Parfum bottle with the classic gold and black box design.
Thanks to the little gold seal engraved with the double G symbol which retains the cordon I can say it dates from the late 90s/early 00s.
Out of curiosity I'd like to be able to date it a bit more precisely. Could you help me, please ? The batch code is SC 25E.
Thanks in advance and congratulations for your site which is a real goldmine ! :-)
A.
Dear A.,
It's lovely to know you appreciate the content on my site! And congratulations on your Jicky Parfum. Prior to 2000, Guerlain's codes weren't decipherable unless you had access to their database. After 2000, the codes were changed so they now begin with a number that indicates the year of production. I have seen some online batch code databases, but I don't think they're precise at all. Looking at your code, you can be sure it was pre-2000, and I'd say somewhere in the 1990s from my experience.
Hi,
Have you ever come across a black and white zig-zag Guerlain Shalimar box without volume indication? Is this the "real" thing? http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=shalimar+extrait&_sacat=0&_from=R40
Dear Anonymous,
The zig-zag box didn't always bear the volume, so it's the real thing!
Hello, Thank you for providing this great site on Guerlain. It's beautiful to see the dedication and passion you have. I have enjoyed the vast amount of information and great presentation. THANK YOU!
Dear Anonymous,
I deeply cherish your appreciation and enjoyment of my Guerlain fan site. It's very comforting to know that you found it useful and entertaining!
Greetings from Australia! I have recently acquired a 2004 bottle of Mitsouko EDP. Is this the pre-reformulated version? Thank you, we are lucky to have your expertise!
Dear Anonymous,
I'm glad my site can be of use. The case of reformulations is very complex, since the formula of Mitsouko (and other scents) has changed gradually from the late 1990s until today, so it's difficult to speak about pre- and post-reformulated editions. Listing allergens on the box didn't become obligatory until the mid-2010s, so we have no clue about for instance the oakmoss status until then, apart from our nose trying to smell it. In my book however I'd consider 2004 a fairly untouched vintage of Mitsouko. Some people even prefer this vintage over earlier ones due to a certain crispness.
Good evening!
Thank you for a wonderful site and what an amazing collecion!
I would like to purchase Shalimar, Jicky and Mitsouko. Would you please advise me wich version should I buy? EDT, EDP or as an extrait de parfum?
Thank you,
Nataly(UK)
Dear Nataly,
Thank you for your appreciation of my site! The Parfum/extrait is always the perfumer's ideal version of a fragrance, and if you want an intimate scent that lasts all day, this is the best choice. If you want a more diffusive trail, EdP is a good choice. The EdT is for a lighter impression.
Dear Mr. Guerlain:
A Paris-based Guerlain representative on a U.S. "trunk show" tried to sell me on L'Heure Bleue extrait (2012 version). Having read your account of the most recent IFRA-mandated reformulation, I told her I wanted something else. Do you know whether the recent changes to L'Heure Bleue fell equally hard on the extrait, so that it too is significantly damaged? Thank you for your advice.
Dear Anonymous,
I'm not sure I'd call L'Heure Bleue 'damaged', however all versions are to my nose far less rich and complex nowadays. Some people find new L'Heure Bleue completely satisfying, but compared to when it had animal musks, lots of orris and the most mellow orange blossom, I feel I miss something.
I must to write something..First thanks on this blog..it is wonderful..I love designer perfumes but GUERLAIN house is No.1 if you ask me.I am big fan of Guerlain perfumes and i am very sory beacuze Guerlain house is sold to LMVH...I will nevr forget one sentence:
Always women and always been a inspiration...Jean-Paul Guerlain..
Regards from Serbia.
Djuradj.
Dear Djuradj,
Thank you very much for liking my Guerlain site and Facebook page. I really appreciate exchanging our passion for Guerlain :-)
Was Shalimar extrait ever sold in a 45ml bottle size? I cannot find any reference to it anywhere and am wondering if the bottle might be a factice. It is thevintage fan shaped bottle with the blue stopper. The label just says "Shalimar". Thanks for your input!
Dear Nicky,
The Guerlain bottle book doesn't mention a 45 ml model of the fan-shaped bottle. Does the bottle or the box state this volume?
Hi, there is no marking on the bottle and no box. It sounds as though the seller decanted and measured the contents. The bottle is missing a few ml, so if there is 45ml in there, the bottle could probably have held a little bit more. It is very puzzling. Might there have been a 48ml or a 50ml bottle? It's definitely not big enough for 60ml.
A myriad of moulds have existed for the Shalimar bottle, and not all are mentioned by volume in the bottle book, so there might well have been a 50 ml version at some point in history.
Dear Mr. Guerlain:
I wonder whether the Mon Precieux Nectar in "Parfum" is the same as "extrait" concentration? I am confused what I would be buying, and is it worth the price? Also, what is your opinion of this fragrance--is it wearable for an everyday scent?
Dear Anonymous,
Parfum is the same as Extrait. Guerlain decided to launch the Parisienne edition of Mon Précieux Nectar as the original Parfum although this line normally goes as EdP, because the fragrance works best this way. It's a very competitive price for a Parfum. I'm not sure I'd call it an everyday scent - it's quite rich.
Hi!
Will you be reviewing the Elixir Charnels collection at some stage? That would be great!
Hi Nicky,
I might do that at one point! My reviews aren't really comprehensive since I mainly write about personal favourites, but I guess my site could need a broader perspective. Thanks for the suggestion!
Hi..
How would you spot a fake Homme..??
Thanks in advance.
Hi Anonymous,
I don't know how to spot a fake Guerlain Homme - I've never seen one and I doubt it exists.
I never get tired of visiting your website and drooling over the fabulous pics.
Dear Sir:
What is your opinion of Insolence extrait? Is it more similar to the eau de toilette or to the eau de parfum? If I adore the eau de parfum, does the extrait amplify its beauty? Thank you for your advice.
Dear Barry,
I immensely value your appreciation of my Guerlain site. It's very reassuring that it's useful and entertaining to some people! Thanks for your kind message.
Dear Anonymous,
I honestly haven't tried Insolence Parfum myself, but the later EdP was an entirely different composition, so I doubt you can compare the two.
Hi.
Would you buy L'Heure Bleue extrait now that it's reformulated, if you know what it used to smell like?
Thanks!
Dear Anonymous,
Yes, I'd still buy L'Heure Bleue. It's still an exceptional fragrance!
Hi.
I just bought a Vol de Nuit 50ml EdT Tester on ebay, it's not the cuboid bottle we can see in store now. Is this one before the reformulation which took oakmoss and animalic notes out?
Thanks!
Dear Andrew,
You have to look at the batch code at the bottom. If it starts with a number, and not a letter, it's probably the new reformulation. We don't know when banned materials were taken out though - we have to smell it. Anyway, the EdT was never as animalic as the Parfum.
Hello!
If you were to choose two of Guerlain's extraits as representing the best of the house, after IFRA's recent mandated reformulations, which two would they be?
Thank you for your gorgeous site and Facebook page!
Dear Anonymous,
I'm glad you enjoy my Guerlain sites! If I were forced to choose only two of the current extraits, I think I'd end up with Shalimar and L'Heure Bleue, and after that, Mitsouko and Nahéma.
Hi,
I am hoping you can advise me on at what year the Guerlain boxes changed from the shiny gold color, I know that it was around in the 80's but not when it changed??? I have the chance to buy a sealed bottle of LHB in this golden box, it is a lil more expensive than the current bottle but would it be worth it??
thank you
Victoria x
Dear Victoria,
The shiny gold and black boxes were introduced in 1983 and taken out of production in 2008.
Please, Will Jardins de Bagatelle remain in the Guerlain line? I can't imagine being without it.
CADale
Dear CADale,
I'm fairly sure that Jardins de Bagatelle will stay. However, its original bottle has recently been replaced by the bee atomizer.
Hi,
I bought Parure EDT in atomizer canisters' lattice look of gold and turquoise.
Could you tell me when it was produced?
Best regards,
Ann
Dear Ann,
The Parure cannister came in 1975, but I don't have information about when it was taken out of production. A guess would be in 1982 when all cannisters were replaced by the standard gold-toned metal canister with a basket weave pattern.
Good morning, Monsieur!
I bought Chamade EDT 30ML in Flacon Louis XVI and zebra box N569.
I know that it was limited edition.
Do you know when it was produced?
Best regards,
Nataliya
Dear Nataliya,
Guerlain did those 30 ml reissues of the Louis XVI bottle in 1977.
Hello, Monsieur Guerlain,
This is a note to tell you how much I enjoy your site. thank you for your hard work. Your passion and appreciation for the House Of Guerlain shines through.
I was given a bottle of Mitsuko, with the serial number SE01. I think this means it was produced in 2002. It was a never used demonstration bottle, and on the back it says Chypre Spicy /Dominant notes/Peach, spices, oakmoss. How fum is that-to see the words oakmoss used in a good way, to define a fragrance?!
Have a good night,
Carole
Dear Carole,
I'm very grateful about your appreciation of my Guerlain site. It's wonderful to know it's useful and entertaining! About the Mitsouko batch code - maybe it says 5 and not S? These codes always begin with a number. 5E01 means May 2005.
I have my glasses now-it says 2E01:) Sorry! So I guess it could be 2002, or perhaps 2012. I really really like it-I feel like I finally understand, or at least have a glimmer of an understanding, of what the mystique of Mitsouko is about.
Also included is a bottle of , I think 1997 Chamade (serial VT 1WG). It's exactly what I remember Chamade to be! When I first wore it, it was so powdery. I accidentally applied too much, on the back of my knees, at Christmas time. I was so mad at myself but had no time to shower again before work. I still remember the compliments it ellicted, and how it changed over the day. It's a very special memory for me. I kept buying Chamade, over the years, and loved it, but somehow this particular bottle smells exactly as my memory of Chamade does.
Sincerely,
Carole
Dear Carole,
2E01 means May 2002 - very nice! Yes, Chamade was even more beautiful in the past...
Good day.First of all i want to tell you that i love your blog.I want to ask you if the civet note in Mouchoir de Monsiuer,current formulation, is organic or synthetic? because i love this perfume but i don t want animals to suffer.Thank you
Dear Anonymous,
I'm very happy that you like my site! To my knowledge, Guerlain doesn't use natural animal materials any longer, precisely to avoid the suffering of animals.
Thank you very much for the answer!
Hi Monsieur guerlian,
I'm so glad to find your site. I have been google search all day and try to find the batch code '2Q02' meaning. It is stamped on my Guerlian facial mask. I would appreciate if you can help me. Thank you so much
Dear Anonymous,
The batch code 2Q02 means produced in March 2012.
Just spotted a fake Mitsouko:
http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/173927600
I've had another ponderings for a while:
There are quite a few umbrella bottles and "bud" cap bottles with a sticker on the bottom of the box or bottle (one finds many of them in Japanese auction sites) saying
"Ce produit ne peut etre vendu que par les depositaires agrees par la societe GUERLAIN conformement a ses conditions generales de ventes." (accents omitted due to german keyboard) under which is the Lot No. in green-ink stamped. They don't look counterfeit at all, and smell very good. Does it just mean the products intended to be sold out of Guerlain boutiques (such as duty-free shops), or are they indeed a counterfeit?
I imagine that many such vintage Mitsouko bottles which end up in the Japanese auction sites were typical souvenirs from a holiday in Europe (because of its Japanese name, it must have been a popular souvenir gift) in the early 80's. Only that it smells much too strong for most Japanese would like, hence many ended up somewhere in the drawer, often only once opened, like my mother's.
Dear auldmisserard,
Thanks for that link! That's very surprising to me, I never saw it before - it all looks correct except for the name, does it say "KUEISHAN"? I wonder. You really never see counterfeited Guerlains. The sentence that you mention were marked on all Guerlain products until some years ago. It stems from the fact that Guerlain didn't reach an agreement with Parisian department stores back in 1842, and therefore Guerlain decided to control itself the sale of its products. All vintage Guerlains, no matter where you find them, bear this stamp.
thank you very much for very precise answer! and thank you for your wonderful work on the website/blog/facebook!
Yes, isn't that bizarre "KUEISHAN", I thought so! And the typeface seems different, as well as what's printed on the seal around the neck "MITSOUKO PARIS PERFUME" isn't it usually "MITSOUKO GUERLAIN PARIS"? (I am a novice, perhaps there are generation of such bottles...) But what's the point...? I suspect Japanese tourist bought it in Hong Kong (back then it was very common that tourists who did shopping in places like Hong Kong unknowingly bought counterfeit luxury-brand bags and other goods, which explains why "Kueishan" ended up in Japan in ca. 80's...).
it really may not be your interest, but i did find an amazing thing during the lunch break: yes, it indeed was written KUEISHAN, (see http://www.japanauctioncenter.com/auction/f127769670 ). There seems to be a Vol de Nuit version of the white outer box, saying KUEISHAN NIGHT FLY PERFUME SUPPLIED BY CHARABOT FRANCE, this time very clearly visible!
Dear auldmisserard,
Sorry for my late reply, and thanks for your research! It's quite interesting, and the first time I hear about these mysterious Japanese Guerlains! Thank you very much for sharing the information.
Hello, Thank you for putting together this wonderful website! It is such a pleasure to browse and I have learnt so much. I was wondering if you might have any tips for dating old Guerlain bottles? I recently acquired two sealed vintage vol de nuits in the propeller bottle. They are similar, but have some definitely differences in details of the bottles. I would love to figure out approximate dates, both to better appreciate them and to help me decide which to open and use first! Thanks in advance for your help!
Dear Lauren,
Sorry for my late reply, and thank you for your appreciative words! Dating old bottles can be quite tricky because the batch codes were different back then. My best recommendation is to try and get the reference book "Guerlain perfume bottles since 1828".
Hi – I am hoping you can help me with information on an old bottle of Jicky that I own. My uncle purchased a bottle of Jicky for my mother while he was in Paris during World War II. He had it shipped to my Mom here in the states. The glass stopper had been sealed with onion skin to prevent leakage. I have inherited the bottle now and I am wondering if there is any chance that the perfume is still good. The bottle has never been opened, but a small amount has evaporated, even with the onion skin intact. I have smelled the fragrance at my local department store, and think it is lovely, but I have my doubts that this bottle has any value anymore. I do not want to open it now after all these years. If the fragrance is no longer there, would the bottle be of any value to a collector. I am not sure what to do with this. I hate to discard it, but I cannot store it forever. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks - Jan
Dear Anonymous,
Thank you very much for your email. What a nice thing to inherit! I doubt that the scent is still good after all these years. If you mainly want this bottle for the fragrance, I think it’s better to get a new bottle and then sell the bottle sealed - then it’s of much higher value for a collector.
I love guerlain and more particularly mitsouko (and l'heure bleue and apres l'ondée and jicky ...).
Do you know why guerlain does not sell vol de nuit in edp? I can only find it in edt.
It is also actually puzzling that it is so hard to find 30 ml edp (apart from mitsouko i prefer 30 ml botles) and to find lait pour le corps.
I love your blog.... and the facebook pages. It is so nice to receive news everyday. Have a nice day. Christine from montpellier
Dear Christine,
I'm very sorry for this terribly late reply - for some reason your comment had slipped through my notifications. I'm very glad you find my Guerlain sites useful! Vol de Nuit was never released as EdP; I guess it doesn't sell well enough for that. I think that nowadays, the EdP bottles only come as 75 ml.
What about Samsara No one mentions it? Isnt it popular??
Dear jenny redhen,
I think that Samsara is a very popular Guerlain perfume. You can read more about it under Perfumes on this website.
Hello Monsieur Guerlain!
I decided to post here instead of inquiring to you on your FB page( both sites are a pleasure though).
I recently intended to purchase a bottle of Nahema extract, yet on a Spirit led choice walked out instead with L'heure Blue ( new formula). I am enamored with her beauty while also knowing I can truly never know her fully, her heart is not there. I would purchase her all over again, even with this knowledge as my heart is hers...do you have any suggestions as to how I might deepen my experience with this beautiful fragrance? I was in hopes of layering her with her top note edt, yet I fear this will further divide us~ perhaps a vintage edp, edc, or even extract as she is? Or in turn I stay in this poetic love, yet distance, to one so beautiful and enjoy my extract for all she has to offer, fleeting as she may be, she is still so lovely~
Thank you for all you do, your wonderful sites and knowledge of the House, coming here is a delight.
Willow
Dear Kelly MacNeil,
Thank you very much for your kind words. It's good to know you find my sites useful. I find modern L'Heure Bleue to be quite faithful to the vintage, although it lacks the animal musk of course. Often Guerlain recommends using the Parfum for the intimate, long-lasting effect, and then spray the EdT on clothes etc to get diffusion. But if you mainly wear perfume for yourself, then I'd say just stick to the Parfum.
Dear Monsieur Guerlain,
I have a question concerning the discontinuation rumours you mention- how can one obtain confirmation of discontinuations in advance? I assume it's not something Guerlain mention in their regular newsletters. I'm particularly concerned about Vol de Nuit extrait. In addition, do you have any comments about the implications of the latest EU oakmoss impurity regulations on the Guerlain classics?
Thank you for your lovingly written and beautifully illustrated articles- part of the reason for an obsession with all things Guerlain that I can't really afford :-)
All the best,
Charis
Dear CharisT
Thank you so much for your kind acknowledgement of my Guerlain articles! It's really good to know they are useful and appreciated. The fact is that the many rumours about discontinuations are often untrue, although some of them prove to be true. You're right that Guerlain for obvious reasons doesn't shout about it, even though it would be nice to know if you are a collector. I sometimes contact Guerlain PR director to ask about these rumours. I'd be very surprised if Guerlain chooses to discontinue Vol de Nuit Parfum, though. As for the oakmoss problem, we were quite relieved to know that Thierry Wasser is constantly working on improving the state of the classics, and that Mitsouko already smells wonderful. The latest Vol de Nuit Parfum is also excellent, in my opinion.
Thank you very much for your reply! That sounds promising, let's hope for the best.
Charis
Thank you! very nice photos! i love them congratulation!
julyofstbarth.com
perfumesusa.jimdo.com
Dear Perfumesusa,
I'm very glad to hear you like it :-)
Hi Monsieur Guerlain
Thank goodness that you give me an insight into what's going within Guerlain! Unfortunately, living in Australia, as a loyal Guerlain customer, we miss out on a lot! In regards to the new 2014 Limited Edition La Petite Robe Noire - where can I purchase them please? Keep up the great news on Guerlain for our loyal "down under" customers!
Dear Sally Jane,
I'm glad you appreciate this site! The limited LPRN editions are out by now, but don't known when they come to Australia :-(
Hello Monsieur Guerlain,
What can you tell us about L'Instant Extreme pour Homme reformulations and new bottle (packaging). It's obvious that the smell is the same but lacks the longevity. Thank you, Amir
Dear Amir,
To my knowledge, there has been no reformulation of LDGPHE - it could be variations in the raw materials or just ageing of older juice? I must admit I haven't smelled any recent batches.
thank you for your answer. please smell any batch after 2012, you will see for yourself what I am talking about. Amir
Dear Amir,
I will do that as soon as possible!
Dear Monsieur Guerlain:
In your news article on the reissuance of Coq D'Or, you mentioned that "Luckily, modern versions of Mitsouko, Vol de Nuit and other Guerlain classics are proof that Wasser wants to go a long way in the lab to try to imitate the effect of a raw material that can no longer be used." I have a 2012 version of Mitsouko extrait, but I am thinking of purchasing L'Heure Bleue in extrait in a few months. Has Mr. Wasser improved LHB extrait (and Mitsouko extrait)from its 2012 incarnation, by trying to reconstruct LHB as it might have been prior to IFRA restrictions?
Dear Anonymous,
Thierry Wasser has told us that as of lately, he has been in the process of making improvements on all of the classic Guerlain perfumes, in order to move them still closer to their original spirit. This has been possible thanks to technological advances and has concerned, among other things, bergamot, musk, moss and spicy notes. It would be wrong to say that the classics now smell just like they did prior to the IFRA restrictions, but they to feel closer to the historic versions. Mitsouko was reformulated in 2013, and according to Thierry Wasser the rest followed suit thereafter.
Yes! L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme Extreme - a pathetic reformulation. Tried it today at Sephora's.... Such a bad bad bad joke. What used to be a masterpiece is now a common/ almost good fragrance. Silage and longevity are to laugh about. That fragrance, the REAL L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme Extreme was 24/7 present in my life: on my pillows, on my scarves, in my structure if I might say. And now... it is just a shy shadow of what it used to be... Habit Rouge has the same story. Basically an eau de parfum has more than 8+ hours longevity. Even my Habit Rouge L'eau is more vibrant than this watered down "monster wannabe". So Monsieur Guerlain.... you should be more informed about those reformulations if you name yourself a brand ambassador/ aficionado. I have read the comments above and I have seen that there are others Guerlain users that observed such BIG changes, and you, Mr. tell us that "good longevity and sillage come with age". Really? Do you think that you are the only Guerlain "fan"? I applaud your passion, but don't try to sell cucumbers to the gardeners. It is obvious that you avoid some "in our face changes". Does Mrs Rousseau - the PR Manager from the House behave the same? YES! This is not fair, at least for the customers that PAY good money to get such products. Thank you
Dear Anonymous,
Thank you for your feedback about LIDGE - I'm very sorry to hear about any eventual changes. I definitely don't consider myself knowing of everything going on at Guerlain, and I don't regularly check each and every new batch of a perfume. A PR dep is typically very tight about information to the public, but I think that Thierry Wasser has been very open about all the reformulations that have been necessary due to safety restrictions. I mention his comments on Habit Rouge on my website. Regarding LIDGE, it surprises me it should have changed as it shouldn't contain any restricted materials, so I appreciate your heads up. It remains a fact however that freshness and ageing greatly affect the impression of a fragrance.
Dear Monsieur:
I just purchased a 2014 version of L'Heure Bleue extrait, and it's somewhat "spicier," nuanced and longer-lasting than the 2012 version I have. The Mitsouko extrait from 2014 is also longer lasting than the 2012 version I own, with a deeper "flavor" to the scent. My dry skin "eats" scent, but these two 2014 versions have much better lasting power on me. Kudos to Thierry Wasser and his reformulation, which I think is the best under the circumstances.
Dear Monsieur:
To continue my previous comment, Derby in its 2014 incarnation is much longer lasting on the skin than the most recent prior version from 2012.
Dear Anonymous,
Thank you for sharing your observations here! It all sounds very reassuring.
Hello Monsieur! Thank you for an incrediable website with great information! I love keeping up with your Facebook and Instagram. I came across a Guerlain item that I hadn't seen before and I was wondering if you could offer up some insight on the product. I am interested in owning it, I just can't find out any information about it anywhere. It is a voyager hand held mirror on Etsy sold as a vintage item.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/201486842/guerlain-meteorites-voyage-mirror-hand?ref=sr_gallery_20&ga_search_query=guerlain&ga_ref=auto1&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery
Thanks so much!
Jessica
Dear Jessica Anne,
Thank you very much for your support! An interesting item you've found there. I never saw such a Météorites mirror before, but it makes sense that several different accessories were made in this very popular and elegant design range.
@Anonymous
Hello,
Do you still have this bottle of Jicky? I just came across this website and your post from Feb 2014.
Would you be interested in selling it? My mother adores this fragrance!
Thank you
Dear eoregon15,
I don't remember I had a bottle of Jicky for sale?
Hi Monsieur Guerlain
I have heard from my rep in Australia that Guerlain are deleting all body products for their fragrances! Is this true? Or is it only for Australian customers? Kind regards.
Dear Sally Jane,
I haven't heard anything about this, but I think it's unlikely this will happen in France.
I just wanted to tell you that I am stunned, amazed, blown away, gobsmacked, and just generally in awe of you, your website, Guerlain and the crazy creativity of all three!!! Guerlain is my favorite House, but I really had no idea why until I clicked on "DNA Guerlainade" and read every word. It was as much a feast for the mind as it was visually stunning....and I learned so much! Thank you for your obsession (if you don't mind me calling it that); it seems to exceed even my own...and you have done something with yours! Something magical and inspiring. (I just wear a lot of Mitsouko.) Thank you. You are incredible.
Dear Celeste Church,
Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm very happy to know that my work has inspired you, and it's flattering to know that another Guerlain aficionado can be taken away.
I am in the Shalimar zone today, and it is good! I've done the Guerlain overdose thing today, just doused myself good and proper with every kind of Shalimar I have (and that's a lot of Shalimar!). One beautiful blue glass bottle I pulled out is called "beautifying hair gel" and I'm wearing it as a lotion...It's like liquid velvet, truly. And I figured you'd know: do they still make this? Would love to get some more, but can't remember where or when I got it! Your thoughts?
Dear Celeste Church,
I think this is one of the products that aren't produced anymore.
I found the Shalimar Beautifying Hair Gel! Amazon has it for twenty bucks!! Can't get it, though, I'm saving up for Jicky. Want a challenge, and the reviews indicate Jicky is that for lots of people. Can't wait! Is Jicky one you like, or is it a miss for you? I can't decide between the EDT or EDP....afraid the pure parfum is beyond me financially. Hope you're enjoying your summer. If you need a little more heat I'll be happy to send you some from Los Angeles...we have way too much!
Hi Celeste,
Jicky is the most classic of Guerlain classics and one I like immensely. The IFRA-safe version is very light, though, so I suggest EdP.
Thanks! I will go for the EDP. I have you to thank for so many of my Guerlain purchases (my wallet is NOT happy with you, Monsieur!) But I am happy. Your prose is so vivid and really makes the perfumes irresistible to me. Keep up the good work! :)
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